Collar linings on men&#39;s and ladies&#39; garments



G.' VON ElSENHART-ROTHE COLLAR LININGS 0N MENS AND LADIES GARMENTS Filed June 28. 1960 Dec. 2z, 1964 United States Patent 3,161,888 COLLAR LININGS N MENS AND LADIES GARMEN'IS Gnther von Eisenbart-Rothe, Giengen (Brenz), Germany, assigner to Vereinigte Filzfabriken A.G.,J.Gien gen (Brenz), Germany, a company of Germany Filed June 28, 1960, Ser. No. 39,214 6 Claims. (Cl. 2-98) In the heretofore manufacture of coats and overcoats in mens and ladies garments, the collar has been made with two linings, namely an undercollar felt cut and a corresponding cut of buckram or biased linen stitched to one another. At a period of raw material shortage, the buckram or biased linen was omitted to .a large extent and only the usual undercollar felt was used, whereby however an unsatisfactory shape and a more or less pronounced flabby appearance of the finished collar had to be accepted; thus, when the raw material shortage ended, manufacturers resumed the manufacture of the two-layer collar.

The object of this invention is characterized by the fact that the collars,.by omission of the buckram or biased linen, are lined with only one layer of the undercollar felt made of a felted or unfelted fleece that has been rendered highly elastic and shrink-resistant.

These and other objects of this invention will become more apparent upon consideration of the following description taken together with the accompanying drawing in which:

FIGURE 1 is an elevational View of the back of a mans coat showing the orientation of -this invention;

FIGURE 2 isa cross sectional view taken on line II--II in FIGURE 1 showing the construction of a portion of the coat of FIGURE l; and

FIGURE 3 is an elevational View of the undercollar.

The undercollar felt used for the application of the method according to the present invention consists essentially of a ileece made of Wool bers or of mixtures of wool and staple iibers that may be fulled or unfulled, felted or unfelted, and that have been enriched, i.e., they have been rendered highly elastic and shrink-resistant, if need be through the addition of starch, by the incorporating of thermoplastic resins, such as polymerizates and mixed polymerizates on a vinyl base and/ or thermosetting resins, such as the condensation products made of urea or phenol and formaldehyde, carbamide and melay anlass Patented Dec. 22, 1964 ice thetic resins, 15 to 40 parts l-ofthermosetting resins and 10 parts of starch.

The resin is suitably added in such a manner that the total weight of the added substances amounts to about 35% of the total weight of the undercollar felt according -to` this invention.

Examples of the proportions of the incorporated substances:

mine resins and, if need be, by the addition of starch.` The undercollar sections are cut out of the run diagonally to the grain of the card eece and can thus easily and suitably be processed for attaching to the garment.

The card fleece is suitably made of mixed fibers consisting for instance of:

Particularly favorable results can be obtained if thermoplastic synthetic and thermosetting resins and some starchV have been incorporated in the liber ileece. Suitable mixing proportions are 75 to 50 parts of thermoplastic syn- Percent Polyvinyl chloride or mixed polymerizate Carbamide or melamine resin 15 Starch l0 Polyvinyl chloride or mixed polymerizate 75 Carbamide resin 10 Melamine resin 5 Starch 10 Polyvinyl chloride or mixed polymerizate 50 Carbamide resin or melamine resin 40 Starch 10 Polyvinyl chloride or mixed polymerizate 50 Carbamide resin l20 Melamine resin 20 Starch 10 For average-weight garments, the iieece density is selected in such a manner that the finished and enriched undercollar felt at the usual width of 180 cm. (70.86") will weigh between 400 to 550 g. per running meter (1.0936 yard). With very light top garments the Weight can be reduced to approximately 325 to 350 g. and be increased to 600 g. and above for heavy overcoats.

The spring action of the undercollar according to this invention is established by tests pursuant to the DIN (German Industry Standardization) No. 53,890. It depends in essence upon the impregnation and is subject to variations according to individual requirements. The surprising technical progress of the undercollar felt according to the present invention resides in the fact that it is possible to obtain without any diiculty rebound angles of degrees and better and it is possible thus to exceed considerably the rebound angle that can be obtained under the most favorable conditions with the two-layer lining of undercollar felt and buckram, as shown in the belowmentioned table.

shrinkage value Rebound Weight in percent Article Angle in of Collar,

Degrees g.

Width Length 1 Undercollar felt standard (without linen) 102. 7 5. 5 6.3 1. 8 2 Undercollar felt with 1inen 123 17 G. 3 1. 8 3 Single-layer undercollar aecording to this invention..- 130 9. 5 1 0.5

. processed according to this invention and at a vweight per meter of 500 g. costs the processing plant DM`8-80 per meter, representing a price reduction of approximately FIGURE 1 shows a mans coat 1 having a collar por'- tion 2 and body portion 3. The body portion 3 is made up of material 4. The collar portion Zis made up of an undercollar 5 and an outer collar 6. Referring to FIG- URE 2, the section shows the outer collar 6 overlying the dercollar, 5 and the orientation or alignment of the carded fleece fibers of the undercollar 5 and the edges of the collar 5 cut diagonally to the fibers.

What is claimed is:

1. In a coat construction the improvement Which comprises a collar construction for maintaining the shape of a deformable material in a collar, said construction consisting solely of a one-piece undercollar consisting essentially of a resilient mixture of elted card iieece of fibers made highly elastic and springable by synthetic resins incorporated in said lieece, and having longitudinal edges cut diagonally to the card fleece, the undercollar having high stretchability in one direction only when heated and being highly and uniformly resilient at every point of its area at lower' temperatures, having the characteristic of retaining and re-establishing its shape.

2. A collar construction as claimed in claim 1 having a spring action making it possible for the collar construction to recover from an `angle flexion of at least 130 and being of a relatively light weight.

3. A collar construction as claimed in claim 1 wherein synthetic resins incorporated in said lieece are polymerized resins selected from the group consisting of vinyl base thermoplastic resins, condensation products of urea, phenol formaldehyde, carbamide resins and melamine resins and starch.

4. A collar construction Yin a coat as claimed in claim 1 wherein the felted card iieece of ii'oers is composed of to 20% wool fibers andfrom 10 to 80% of other bers.

5. A collar construction in a coat as claimed in claim 1 wherein the synthetic resins incorporated in said fleece consist of 75 to 50 parts of vinyl thermoplastic polymers and 15 to 40 parts thermal setting resins and 10- parts of starch, said resins and starch making up approximately 35% of the total Weight. 4

6. A collar construction in a vcoat as claimed in claim 1 wherein the one-piece undercollar is made up of amaterial having at a width of centimeters a running meter weight from 400 to 550 grams.

References @tten in the tile of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Great Britain of 

1. IN A COAT CONSTRUCTION THE IMPROVEMENT WHICH COMPRISES A COLLAR CONSTRUCTION FOR MAINTAINING THE SHAPE OF A DEFORMABLE MATERIAL IN A COLLAR, SAID CONSTRUCTION CONSISTING SOLELY OF A ONE-PIECE UNDERCOLLAR CONSISTING ESSENTIALLY OF A RESILIENT MIXURE OF FELTED CARD FLEECE OF FIBERS MADE HIGHLY EELASTIC AND SPRINGABLE BY SYNTHETIC RESINS INCORPORATED IN SAID FLEECE, AND HAVING LONGITUDINAL EDGES CUT DIAGONALLY TO THE CARD FLECE, THE UNDERCOLLAR HAVING HIGH STRETCHABILITY IN ONE DIRECTION ONLY WHEN HEATED AND BEING HIGHLY AND UNIFORMLY RESILIENT AT EVERY POINT OF ITS AREA AT LOWER TEMPERATURES, HAVING THE CHARACTERIST OF RETAINING AND RE-ESTABLISHING ITS SHAPE. 